This situation doesn't really exist in GTO (BTN never limps), so there's no theoretical benchmark — but based on experience, these call percentages are clearly too high, especially given the weak ranges involved.
Your opponents should never call this often with such weak holdings.
3. When to prefer ISO shoves?
Here are three key reasons why ISO shoving is often the best option in this setup:
You immediately collect 3 blinds when everyone folds.
You capitalize on your opponents’ overly loose calls.
You avoid difficult postflop multiway pots, out of position.
❓ What hands to shove?
As usual with ISO shoves, ideal hands are those that dominate opponents’ ranges and don’t play well postflop.
→ Strong Ax hands and pocket pairs when stacks are still deep.
Between 14 and 18 bb: Shove all pocket pairs and all Ax hands.
As stacks get shorter: Gradually expand to include stronger Kx, then all Kx and some Qx.
Example (6–8 bb): Shove all Aces, all Kings, and some Queens. Note: This still means you’ll be checking the majority of your hands.
📈 Choose a low-variance strategy
At 25 bb, some hands like A3o or A5o may be slightly more EV+ to shove…
But that gain is marginal — just a few hundredths of a blind — and not worth the added variance.
➡️ In such spots, checking is often better: you have a global edge over the field and can afford to wait for a better spot.
If you want to dig a bit deeper, let’s look at it in more detail.
At 25 bb, here is the EV difference between the ISO shove and the second-best option (either flat call or ISO to 5.5 bb), factoring in recreational player tendencies:
🟩 Green = ISO shove is the most +EV option. 🟥 Red = ISO shove is the least +EV option.
👆 This hasn’t always been the case in other strategic guides, but in this table, the number in each cell represents the EV difference between the ISO shove and the second-best option.
Result: at 25 bb, we identify three categories of hands:
1️⃣ Hands clearly EV- to shove
Examples: AA, KK, or marginal hands like T5o. These hands should be played as follows:
ISO raise to 5.5 bb for premiums (AA, KK), since they play well postflop.
Check with weak hands like T7o, 85s, etc.
2️⃣ Hands clearly EV+ to shove
There aren’t that many:
A7o, A8o, A9o, ATo
A9s, ATs
3️⃣ Intermediate hands: similar EV between ISO shove and the next best option
All other hands likee AKs, AQs, A3o, A5o, A6o have an EV very close to the second-best play.
In this case, you can:
ISO shove the ones that dominate the opponent’s calling range (e.g. AQs).
Check the others, especially if they’re often dominated (small Ax, small pairs).
⚖️ In conclusion: this is not a black-and-white spot, but rather a subtle balance between EV, strategic simplicity, and in-game comfort.
The BB vs limp + limp spot is more nuanced than it looks.
📉 How our ISO shove range evolves with stack depth
At 12–14 bb, the ISO shove range doesn’t change drastically. It widens slightly, and the EV of some hands increases — especially pocket pairs.
Here’s the EV difference (ISO shove vs second-best option) at 13 bb:
Intermediate hands (where EV is similar between shove and check) now include combos like K9s– and the best suited connectors.
In our exploitative ranges, we chose to check these hands to keep variance low.
4. Non-all-in ISO: use with caution
The non-all-in ISO (ISO NA) is best reserved for a few specific hands early in the game, and only if you're comfortable postflop.
AA, KK, QQ → Can be raised to extract maximum value.
KQ, KJs → Can also be ISO raised since the shove can carry too much variance.
📉 From 14 bb and below, the ISO shove becomes the most EV+ and simplest option. Only AA might be worth considering for a raise instead of a shove.
If you’ve made it this far — congratulations. You’re among the most dedicated players looking to improve. Keep going — that mindset will take you far.